20 Cours Mirabeau

At 20 Cours Mirabeau, one of Aix-en-Provence’s most prestigious avenues, stands the Hôtel de Forbin — a 17th-century masterpiece and a proud witness to the opulence of Provence’s noble families. Construction began in 1656 under César de Milan, a counsellor at the Parliament of Provence, following plans by the architect Pierre Pavillon. After Milan’s death, his widow and son Claude completed the residence, and in 1672, Claude’s marriage to Gabrielle de Forbin gave the mansion its enduring name, linking it to the powerful Forbin family.

Elegance and Architectural Harmony

The building perfectly embodies the transition between Mannerism and Provençal Baroque. Its honey-colored limestone façade, finely cut and proportioned, is structured around elegant vertical lines with Ionic and Corinthian pilasters. Wrought-iron balconies, sculpted window frames, and classical symmetry lend the structure its balanced grace — a hallmark of Aix’s architecture.

Inside, decorated salons, painted ceilings, and monumental fireplaces recall the grandeur of aristocratic life. A discreet garden behind the building once completed this harmonious ensemble.

Pauline Bonaparte in Aix

The Hôtel de Forbin is also remembered for hosting Pauline Bonaparte, sister of Napoleon I, in 1807. Officially in Aix for a thermal cure, she also came with a diplomatic mission: to charm the local elite still wary of the Empire. From her wrought-iron balcony, Pauline presided over the Fête-Dieu festivities, captivating the crowd and fueling admiration — and gossip.

Her rumored affair with Auguste de Forbin, painter and future director of the Royal Museums, added a romantic note to the mansion’s history. The tale of her donkey milk baths scented with lavender, supposedly betrayed by their fragrance at the city markets, is more legend than fact — but a charming one that adds color to the building’s past.

From Aristocratic Residence to Banking Landmark

In 1936, the Crédit Lyonnais acquired the property, transforming it into its Aix headquarters — a role it still holds today. While the mansion is not open to the public, the vestibule and grand staircase can occasionally be glimpsed during banking hours, offering a view into its former splendor.

Heritage Designation

The Hôtel de Forbin has been protected as a Historic Monument in two stages:

• Listed by decree of 5 November 1990: the main building.
• Classified by decree of 8 August 1991: the façades and roofs of the hôtel and its outbuildings; the staircase and vestibule in their original volume; the two first-floor salons with their decorative schemes; the enclosing wall; the carriage gateway; and the ground of the former garden.

These protective measures identify the most significant architectural and historical elements of the property and acknowledge its importance within the urban heritage of Aix.

Now occupied by the bank, the building is primarily visible from the public street. If the entrance door happens to be open, visitors may discreetly glimpse the vestibule and the beginning of the staircase; if it is closed, entry should not be attempted, and the privacy of the premises should be respected.