Place de Lenche: Between Ancient Ruins, Legends, and Marseille’s Daily Life

Located just steps from the Old Port and the City Hall, Place de Lenche is one of the oldest and most symbolic squares in Marseille. It blends ancient history, religious memory, local traditions, and the Mediterranean art of living, at the very heart of the Panier district.

A Square Built on the Ancient Agora

Historians believe that Place de Lenche occupies the site of the ancient agora of Massalia, founded by the Greeks around 600 BC. This was the political and commercial center of the ancient city — already a strategic and lively area at the time. This direct link to Antiquity makes the square a true piece of living history in modern Marseille.

A Marseille Legend: The “Desnaradas”

In the 5th century, a convent of nuns called Saint-Sauveur was established nearby. Around it was born one of Marseille’s most striking legends.

According to the tale, during a Saracen invasion, the nuns made the drastic decision to cut off their noses to make themselves unattractive to the invaders and thus preserve their chastity.

Though emotionally powerful, this story likely belongs to the realm of myth, as no historical sources confirm it. The nuns came to be known as the “Desnaradas”, meaning “without noses” in Provençal — a mysterious and haunting legend that adds to the square’s unique charm.

The convent itself disappeared in the 8th century, but its underground cellars still exist beneath the square. They are classified as historic monuments, silent witnesses to a fascinating past.

The Lenche Family and the Art of Coral

The square owes its name to the Lenche family, originally from Corsica, who settled there in the 16th century. Wealthy merchants, they built a private mansion and developed a coral workshop, an important craft in Marseille’s port economy at the time.

This mansion still stands today — it now houses the Salle de Lenche, an active cultural venue dedicated to contemporary artistic creation.

A Political Tribute

At the center of the square stands a bronze bust of Henri Tasso, mayor of Marseille from 1935 to 1939, sculpted by Oscar Eichacker in 1951. This work pays homage to a prominent local political figure of the 20th century.

A Lively Square with a View of the “Bonne Mère”

Today, Place de Lenche is a vibrant, welcoming space, lined with cafés and restaurants, and beloved for its open view of the Notre-Dame de la Garde Basilica, affectionately called La Bonne Mère by locals.

It remains a meeting point for residents, actors from the nearby theater, and curious visitors, blending everyday life, history, and community spirit — a perfect example of Marseille’s living heritage.