Marseille – Le Panier

Marseille’s Oldest and Most Iconic Neighborhood

Le Panier (translates to “the basket”) is Marseille’s oldest district – and perhaps its most emblematic. Just behind the Old Port, perched on a hillside, this “village within the city” charms visitors with its narrow lanes, colorful shuttered houses, steep stairways, walls covered in street art, and its warm, lively atmosphere. Here, artists, artisans, long-time residents, and curious visitors mix, all drawn by the area’s unique authenticity.

Founded in the 6th century BC by Greek settlers from Phocaea, this is the birthplace of ancient Massalia. Today’s Place de Lenche was once the Greek agora, while the Butte des Moulins (French for “mills”) hosted the acropolis dedicated to Athena. Over the centuries, the neighborhood grew, with landmarks such as the Hôtel-Dieu (now a luxury hotel) and the Vieille Charité, a baroque masterpiece that has become a cultural center.

A working-class, multicultural area, Le Panier has long welcomed fishermen, laborers, and immigrants from Italy, Corsica, and North Africa. But it has also endured dark times: in 1943, the Nazis, with the help of the Vichy regime, emptied the neighborhood of more than 30,000 people and demolished 1,500 buildings. Only the upper part of Le Panier, harder to access, partially escaped destruction.

Between the 1980s and 2000s, the neighborhood underwent a revival. Artists, creators, and residents breathed new life into its streets, squares, and walls. Today, Le Panier is home to artisan workshops, galleries, boutiques “made in Marseille”, bohemian cafés, charming stairways, and photogenic viewpoints around every corner.

Street art is everywhere: colorful, sometimes provocative, often humorous. Not everyone will love it – some might find it unsettling, even overwhelming – but it is now an inseparable part of the district’s identity. It tells the story of the city, its struggles, its dreams, its anger, and above all, its sense of humor and openness. Le Panier is not just visited, it is experienced: take the time to look up, smile, and let yourself be surprised, but I recommend during the day to see all the art.

The name “Le Panier” is said to come from a medieval inn called Le Logis du Panier, whose sign depicted a basket. Another legend tells of a basket lowered by rope to collect money without stepping outside…

Whatever its origin, Le Panier today is a must-see. It is at once the living memory of Marseille, a symbol of cultural diversity, and a playground for creativity. To grasp its true soul, the best advice is simply to get lost there: stroll, look up, listen, breathe… and let yourself be surprised.

Highlights not to miss: rue du Panier, La Vieille Charité, Montée des Accoules, the Church of Les Accoules, Hôtel-Dieu, the statue of Honoré Daumier, the Deportation and Resistance Memorial, Hôtel Daviel, La Maison de la Boule, and Place de Lenche.

For an overview of Marseille, click here.

For all my posts on Marseille, click here.

Leave a comment