Chiyoda

In 1868, the new emperor decided to take up residence in the City of Edo, which then systematically became the national capital and changed its name to Tokyo. The palace in Kyoto, the former capital, remains accessible to the imperial family to this day.

The Imperial Palace (workplace) is often confused with the Imperial Palace (residence), as both are located nearby and have the same name. The Imperial Palace complex consists of three sites connected by bridges that span the moat, including:

• The main palace area includes the Imperial Palace (workplace), where the Emperor exercises his functions but does not reside, and a 1935 building for the Imperial Household Agency (kunaicho Chosha) headquarters, which handles the day-to-day operations of the imperial sites, including travel, receptions, and public visits. The third floor of this agency building was used temporarily for administrative functions from 1952 until the construction of the new Imperial Palace in 1968.

Outside access to this part of the imperial complex is limited and with a guide only. In fact, it is possible to approach the palace (workplace) in a small group, at two specific time slots on opening days. Meet at the Sakashita-mon Gate which is continuously monitored for access.

The Imperial Palace (workplace) can be visited only twice a year, on the Emperor’s birthday (also known as Japan’s National Day) currently February 11th and on New Year’s Day, January 2. The Emperor and his family make a public appearance behind bulletproof glass. The Imperial Palace (Kyuden) (workplace) is a two-story reinforced concrete building comprising a main office reception hall (Seiden state Function Hall) and five wings (Homei-Den State Banquet Hall, Chowa-den Reception Hall, Rensui Dining Room, Chigusa-no-Ma and Chidori-no-Ma drawing rooms) in addition to the Emperor’s offices, which was completed in 1968. This Kyuden is used for official receptions or ceremonies or state functions.

• The East Garden (open to visitors) is home to Edo period ruins as well as the Sannomaru Shozokan (The Museum of the Imperial Collections) and the Toka-gakudo concert hall. For more information see East Garden of the Imperial Palace.

• Fukiage Gardens (non-public area): There are two Imperial Palaces (residences) in this part of the complex: Imperial Palace (residence of the emperor and his family) and Fukiage Omiya Palace, where Emperor Shōwa’s widow (Hirohito) resided until her death in 2000. Much of the area has now become forest after the golf course was razed.

Before 1868, when Kyoto was the capital and residence of the Emperor, in Edo (present-day Tokyo), the shogunate was strongly established in what is now the Imperial Palace complex. There was then Edo Castle, in one of the solidly built and guarded fortresses. Each are protected by moats, high stone walls and linked by bridges. The construction of the “fortress” began in 1457 by Ota Dokan, to gain momentum over the years and for 265 years (1600-1868), the clan of the shogunal government was very present in Edo and the Tokugawa clan in the last years.

When Emperor Meiji chose to move into a palace in 1868, several parts of the complex had already been destroyed, including the main Edo Palace (fire in 1863). The site of the Honmaru Goten Palace of Edo Castle, completed in 1606, was then on its fifth fire (between 1622 and 1863). The only building rebuilt was the Nishinomaru Palace (1864). When the new government, Emperor Meiji, was granted access, Nishinomaru then became the Imperial Palace.

The infrastructure of the time is not present today except for the stone walls, the access gates and the turret, guard post and Fujimi yagura.

Even the Nishinomaru Palace, which became the Imperial Palace (residence), burned down in 1873. The Meiji Palace was then built in 1888. Tokyo has suffered several upheavals. Earthquakes, fires, internal conflicts and the Second World War have meant that several sites have been rebuilt after 1945. The Meiji Palace was significantly damaged by the air raid of the Second World War.

With the scale of the efforts to rebuild the city, other infrastructures were prioritized and it was not until 1968 that a new main palace was available. It should be noted that the properties and places that belonged to the imperial family were transferred to the state in 1947, after the war. It is the state that makes available to the emperor and the family certain residences that extended beyond the city of Tokyo.

No matter which palace the emperor occupies, the latter becomes the imperial residence, sometimes for a temporary period, sometimes for a longer period, which makes the search for information more complex. Although the site seems large to us, it must be said that the spaces have been greatly reduced over time. A buffer part between the imperial palace complex and Tokyo station has become the Kōkyo Garden.

In Tokyo, two areas of the city are designated for the royal family. Near Tokyo Station, the palace and residence of the Emperor as described above occupies a large area. The extended family, that is, the parents of the current emperor, his brother the “Crown Prince”, his uncles “princes” and his grandfather’s aunts “princesses” have their place of residence at Motoakasaka, also known as Akasaka Estate, near the State Guest House (formerly the Akasaka Palace).

It is not possible to see the palace or the imperial residence even from a distance. A typical image of the site without accessing it is that from the Kōkyo Gaien garden where we see the two bridges, Nijubashi (Seimon-tetsubashi) and Seimon Ishibashi, with the Fushimi-yagura keep tower in the background.

Nijubashi Bridge (Seimon-tetsubashi) is the iron bridge that connects the Imperial Palace Plaza to one of the main entrances to the Emperor’s residential palace. If you visit the site with a guide, you may have the opportunity to walk across it. Seimon Ishibashi Bridge connects the Imperial Palace to the Kokyo Garden. This stone bridge was originally built in 1624-1627 and was rebuilt in 1889.

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